How To Plant Ball & Burlap Plants

Posted by: Joshua Howard in weathertreespleasant hill nurseryplantsour insight as growersnursery businessgrowing on Print 

In the nursery trade b&b is short for ball and burlap.  We can usually begin digging our field stock in late October but the timing is based primarily on weather conditions.  It is necessary to let the ground get wet enough so that the root ball of the plant holds together without cracking or breaking.  In the fall as temperatures get cooler and the days shorter plants head into winter dormancy so digging this time of year puts much less stress on the plant.  We offer a wide selection of field grown plant material including conifers, shrubs, and shade trees.

When you purchase a plant that has been dug in ball and burlap fashion you want to handle the ball carefully and not drop it. Breaking or cracking the ball will increase the mortality of your plant.

We use burlap and Jute Twine that biodegrades so it isn’t necessary

to remove either from the ball of the plant.  If you want you can cut the twine that is secured around the trunk and open the burlap back so it barely exposes the dirt on the top of the ball.

If you happen to purchase a plant from another nursery  you will want to look very closely to make sure that they didn’t use plastic twine because this will not break down in the soil and it will eventually girdle the trunk and roots resulting ultimately in the death of the plant.

When you dig the hole to plant your tree or shrub the diameter of the hole should be six inches more than the diameter of the root ball.  This will leave a 3 inch gap between the edge of the ball and the edge of the hole if it is centered in the hole.  The depth of the hole will be based on the height of the root ball which will vary greatly from plant to plant as well as overall plant size.  A good rule to follow is to make sure the base of the trunk where the plant meets the root ball is 3 to 5 inches above the surrounding grade.  Make sure the bottom of the hole is somewhat flat and that the diameter at the bottom is the same as it is at the top.  This will save you from having to possibly pull the plant out to dig the hole out more and will give you more room to move it around into the position that shows off your plants best attributes.  Before positioning your tree cut the twine off the top if the foliage is tied.  The people who dig the plants tie the foliage up so that branches are up and out of the way for digging and it also protects them during shipment. After your plant’s foliage is untied step back and take a look and make sure you are happy with the placement of your plant.  If everything looks good fill in the hole around the plant.  Make sure not push dirt up around the trunk.  The dirt should taper from the trunk down the original grade.  Water the tree deeply until water saturates the dirt and fills the hole.  This will fill in any air bubbles and settle the freshly dug dirt down around the root ball.  If necessary you can add some more dirt after everything settles.  Add a 3 inch layer of bark mulch around the base of the plant making sure not to pile it around the trunk and water again to settle the mulch.  If your location is not windy or high traffic staking is not recommended.  A small amount of movement from light breezes will establish a sturdier trunk and root system.  Water every 5 to 7 days and monitor the soil around your plant for moisture and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

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